BIG.WAVES.

South of BH (LS). Yesterday the waves were huge. I’m going to say overhead-double overhead. Not every wave, but enough.

I could hardly paddle out and I 100% threw up in my mouth from how hard the paddle was for me. That has definitely never happened to me.

The first ride I got was so sweet. I had this sick drop and I was so amped that I made that wave. It made me feel so good. I was surprised I went on it, and so were the dudes around me. I had a couple other sweet waves but I spent a lot of time too far outside. I was just charging yesterday. I was totally scared. I had the jitters. I haven’t felt that way in a while. I took a left like a total kook and by the grace of god the ocean spared me. It was not pretty but I just kept whispering thankyouthankyouthankyou.

I’m slightly concerned about my left shoulder but I asked a friend for some advice and now I’m rolling out my shoulder and it actually feels a little better. The theory is it’s just overuse.

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South of R’s (LS). I went out today but it wasn’t my scene. Someone else coulda done something magical I’m sure but I was having a really hard time reading the waves and most of them I got a bad feeling on. it was so disorganized. They were breaking all over the place and drawing like curtains.

I slept through DP today and I vowed never again. 5am wake up calls from now on.

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I really want to understand why the shape of the waves at SS is the way it is. It’s so dramatic. It’s like a little kid drew a wave, or like the cap part of a sombrero. Not all the time but when it’s firing. It was so much cleaner at SS then LS today.
FOLLOW UP TO THIS POST 10.26.19: I asked my friend whose surfed here a bunch this question last night. It relates to the swell direction—under certain conditions, the swell wraps around, reverbs off the rocks on the left if you’re looking out from shore and forms “teepees”. The weird-shaped waves. Ahah! This explains why it’s not all the time it’s doing this…depends on which wave the waves are coming.

I am beat.

I found my spot to skate—the high school. It’s perfect. Some real gentle declines too.

La vie est belle

What a beautiful surprise awaited me on my stoop when I got home from working in the city today, from one of my most favorite surfers of all time, the one who welcomed me into this surfing community and shared so much stoke. The sweet floral surprise just washed a beautiful wave of water and light over my heart and gave me such peace and joy. Life is so beautiful. I have been missing this beautiful surfer, and thinking so much about them, it just lit me up.

Spooked Kook Surf Competition and Beach Clean Up

Jenness/Parking Lots.

Competed in my first ever surf comp yesterday. Basically, I’m a BAB.

Surfrider NH threw the Spooked Kook Surf Comp and Beach Clean up at Jenness, sponsored by Surfrider NH, Cinnamon Rainbows, Summer Sessions, Pioneers Skate & Surf and Jimbo’s Surf Wax. Jimbo (I assume that’s the guy who owns Jimbo’s?) made a CUSTOM PUMPKIN SPICE WAX FOR THE EVENT. The added bonus of it is that it is stifling the dank smell of seaweed my car has wreaked of as of late, and the general brininess that is usually odoriferous. And Cinnamon, Summer and Pioneers put together tons of swag for the winners of the surf contest [categories were: Best Costume, Spookiest Move and Longest Ride.]

So many people came! 50 or so! We really didn’t know how many would come and I think we were all pumped for the turn out. Dad came and cleaned up the beach! Plus there were lots of little ones, including a girl scout troupe! And so many people in costume. We had Chewbacca, a Rasta, a purple squid, many masked folks, a zombie cheerleader, America (maybe?), Grim Reaper, the Earth as One Big Plastic Thing!, and many others.

We sold custom-made stickers and T’s for the event along with our normal Surfrider stickers and shirts.

I decided last minute to enter the comp and I’m so happy I did. It was so silly and so fun and I had no idea that I could sit on a board and ride it! The heats were a spooky 13 minutes and each heat had about 4-5 people in it. We had three heats divided by age group. We even had a dog surfing! Nico! He competed with the groms and surfed backwards.

The whole thing was so fun and I think everyone had a good time. It’s the first annual so we’ll be doing it again next year. Love that people were excited to clean the beach, get in the Halloween spirit and come together as a community.

Plus, Maddie and I made a pact to build our surfboards together as our winter project this year and I’m stoked about it.