Maybe hard is necessary

It just hit me.

I’ve been unconsciously resisting against a hard life.

It’s been the veil behind every thought.

It’s been the resistance, uncertainty around the central life questions looping through my mind—having kids, having kids and still having time to surf, buying a house, saving for retirement, figuring out freedom, helping our loved ones grow and age.

Well ya, maybe it’s hard, but you know what? I’ll figure it out.

And it’s ok if it’s hard. Hell—it might be important that it’s hard.

Where’d this idea come from that it should all, or would all, be easy?

It occurs to me this epiphany has also been had by the writers of the Friends theme song and Coldplay in The Scientist.

the horrible bore of endless love and kindness

My mum stayed at home after I was born. She had held steady jobs before that—gift wrapper at Filenes, assistant at the company my Dad worked at (how they met) and an assortment of other paid work.

She stayed home with me until I entered high school. (When I entered high school, she took up a part time job down the street at the Collector’s Office.)

I judged her hard for staying home as an angry teen. I thought she was a bore to be at home—I wondered “what are her goals? what is she working towards? why won’t she just leave me alone?” I was filled with all these fancy notions of what one should be doing, because I knew everything as a tween.

In her “spare” time at home, she minded many of my cousins while their parents worked, and she was always hosting sleepovers and adventures for scores of my cousins. She cleaned, she tended my endless strep throats, she volunteered with our church, she volunteered at the Kiwani club, she drove me and my friends everywhere.  

My mum was cool. I just didn’t know.

My mum’s core was service and caring for people—people she knew well and people she didn’t know at all.

As I walked out of my office yesterday, I wondered—was that a conscious decision?

Did she realize that she could give so much more heartily of herself in her proper way, without being tethered to a 9-5 job?

Did she realize that her special contribution would be so much more powerful than any sort of job she might have chosen?

Did she realize that she was changing peoples’ lives in a deeper and more profound way than she would have in any other way?

I am talking only about my mother specifically here, not you, your mother, or your mother’s mother. I believe her gifts were so much freer to have an impact without the confines of a day job to clock into. She was free to watch children, whatever children they happened to be, to help out. 

This was her gift:

Mum had the ability to make every person she met feel special, in an instant. She remembered everything—this was, just as often, a burden, as she could hold a lethal grudge—but it also included her ability to remember birthdays, anniversaries, children’s favorite toys/books/sports/ice cream. She was a living fountain of love.

And I gave her no credit for it while she was still alive. Ah, what a fool I was. Stuck on living those wild and fancy dreams and growing out of the humdrum of minding people, walking the dog, volunteering, and whatever other boring things Mum was doing.

Mum had nonchalantly committed to and lived fully what’s truly meaningful in life.

She was flawed—angry, capricious, often fire and brimstone as a mother, sister and wife—but she got it. She got what it took me 33 years to get, and she didn’t preach by anything other than her actions.

And I’m so so very grateful for what she taught me, even if it has taken me this long.

everyone hits the pothole, for the love of clam strips, killer close outs, gramps gets the parking space, dog eats dog

swell: 5-7

wetsuit: 4.3

booties and gloves (first time wearing them of the season)

air temp: 

sunny/partly sunny

light wind

board: sasha, 8’0

checked the surf report and the swell still looked solid—5-7 feet, big for us around here, so it was on.

we remembered dan was missing a fin about five minutes before we hopped in the car, so we visited our friends at surfari, grabbed some fins, and took advantage of their columbus day weekend sale.

as soon as we hit the beach, we saw three surfers getting out of the water; always a questionable sign, but there were still a few SUPs and surfers out so we paddled in. 

and then we waited.

and waited. 

and waited. 

monstrous mountains kept rolling through but close outs were serious so ya. 

a couple guys next to us got on a few waves but everything was closing out hard and the smaller rollers I was aiming for had no push and I stalled out every time.  

I tried to move some to the right, after dan and i wondered if it might be a little more chill further right and got shit-slammed and experienced the joys of a three wave hold down. but i learned if i got really low right before a monster wave hit, i could just let go of my board and miss the washing machine. not safe if other surfers are around, but fine in my case since there weren’t.

i spent most of the day in the washing machine, punching myself over the waves, barely turtling or just calling uncle and getting as low as i could as the big waves crashed over me. 

when i nearly broke my neck on a killer close out, i thanked patcha mama and poseidon for sparing me and got out. all the dogs in town were on the beach—a goony great dane, a hundred labs, springer spaniels. they love running up and down the beach.   

when dan got out, we decided to hit cape ann brewery but i didn’t want to leave our new boards on the top, so we tetris’ed it up and finagled them into the car. dan couldn’t see anything as we pulled out but we made it to the pub, where the clam strips were glorious as were the beers. with the return of cape ann’s imperial pumpkin stout, what more could you want? 

 

where to surf according to the guy on the beach from jersey: who’s surfed everywhere  

costa rica

santa teresa

malpais


ecuador

montanita

nova scotia