Beaches Open. Back Surfing.
It was this article, shared by my buddy and fellow hard core beach bum Steph, that sent me cartwheeling around the room with a shit-eating smile on my face last week. The countdown to the beaches reopening to surf had begun.
Monday couldn’t come fast enough. I didn’t give a damn that Magic Seaweed was boasting a less than fair forecast. I had to get out there.
I jumped in at Long Sands for the first time in over two months and immediately felt that inner boost. My first wave, I caught a left, which sent me over the moon. I’d almost felt sure that I’d come back and lose everything I’d worked on over the winter.
Wednesday, I drove up to Long Sands and had to keep driving north, as it was almost unsurfable—sloppy and choppy. Short Sands had some rubber suits but I kept driving north, as it was low tide and I knew the spots that might be working. Peeeeeeeling waves just north of York and I was so stoked that for the first time, some local earned knowledge came in handy. After a long paddle, and a sweet wave, I got my ass handed to me when I got caught in the inside. I tried to paddle back out but, afraid of how gassed I was getting and knowing I’d been on the bench for two months, I decided I’d save it for another day.
Which was today! Happy day at Long Sands w Maddie. Love sharing waves with her. Just north of restaurants was perfect and I was so sad to leave the 80 degree weather for the computer but it was just the beginning of warm water.
The silver lining of not surfing for two months is that it’s almost 4/3 time, and the water’s actually started to warm up. Life is good.