Re: belly & swell: Making the Call to Stop Surfing for Now

[written November 7, at 26 months pregnant]

Yesterday I made the call—hanging up my wetsuit until after the baby is born.

I’ve been slowly and begrudgingly approaching this day, really resisting it, but it was clear to me that it was time yesterday.

It was a gorgeous day at LS—2-3 feet, clean, relatively long periods, mid tide with an incoming tide right in the mid morning (when does that timing happen on a weekend?)

I rolled up to the beach with an open mind as was the custom I’d adopted over the last few months while surfing, my mantra being: If it’s doesn’t feel right, sit tight.

Three weeks had passed since I’d last been out and my belly had really popped. This time, I made sure to wear wet sox under my booties for easy on/off (I’d felt like I was going to have an aneurysm trying to get them off without wet sox before—so hard to reach and this growing bowling ball in my way). The wet sox were a game changer and I also just took my time getting the booties on. It was a warm 45 degrees, sun was shining and wind was low so I had the luxury of moving slowly.

There was a mess of seaweed on the beach and in the water, which I guessed had been kicked up by recent rain and storms. I walked through the seaweed as far as I could before hopping on my board. On the board, I did inchworm move—butt up in the air to accommodate the bump. Paddling was a lot harder—it was tough to find my balance and hard to not feeling like I wasn’t smushing El Bumpo. Three weeks out of the water hadn’t done much for my arms either, which felt like noodles quickly. I paddled out and settled in.

Surfing pregnant has definitely made me more selective. I won’t paddle for anything like I normally would and just getting out. there is a feat in and of itself, so I don’t mind waiting for the right wave to roll through. There was a lot of futile paddling on this day—finding the right spot on my board was proving an interesting challenge—but I finally managed to score a nice right. My balance was off but it felt so good to paddle and pop up. It’s the best feeling in the world and one I never take for granted.

While I caught some awesome waves during the session, the day felt different. Surfing is my happy place, but today I was stressed and worried about falling or hitting my board or getting hit by those around me. I’d finally arrived at the point I knew would come where my valid worries outweighed the fun factor. My (temporarily) final wave was perfect. I rode it nearly to shore, a beautiful right that allowed some fun breezy turns.

At 14 weeks to go before bebe comes, I got to surf through my first and second trimesters safely and for that, I’m super grateful. It’s definitely a tough moment for me, to pause until bebe comes, and then to anticipate more time for recovering, but I’m feeling confident in the choice and committed to what feels right to me in terms of fun and safety in my life right now. I’m committed to doing everything I can to both usher this baby in safely, keep myself safe and get back in the water as quickly as possible.

A Ruthless Look at my Dream of Writing. Or: Rich? Yes Please. Fame? Pass. Mostly Just Do the Work.

I love the idea of being a prolific writer but the tactical work of it—the butt in the chair, boots on the ground terra firma-ness of it—well I find myself evading all that. I love imagining myself staring at my bookshelf filled with works I’ve written, completed and published, but I’ll spend all day polishing the windows (or usually just thinking about polishing the windows) and avoiding the work to actually get there like the plague.

My dream for myself as a writer has morphed significantly since I was a child submitting my work to Written and Illustrated By, a kid’s publishing contest that ushered in the likes of the great Dav Pilkey (genius behind the illustrious Captain Underpants series). Back then, I wanted to be rich and famous through writing. That was my north star for years, and it took me several decades to really question that assumption—several decades to realize how much I treasure my anonymity. It really solidified for me in a castle in Ireland when Bono showed up for a pint in the castle’s pub. He was rolling with a small crew and spent not ten minutes relaxing until a crowd of camera-wielding fans arrived to take his photograph and steal his soul. The idea of being hounded by crazed fans—by being unable to pull into a Hannaford and review, unfettered, heads of lettuce for blemishes—that idea gave me the heebie jeebies. The rich part has not yet given me the heebie jeebies, but I’ve realized I’m not into the whole hustle thing. I’d rather opt for a slow burn. I’m not clacking away on my keyboard until midnight and I’m just not an anything for my business! human. I’m a I could be writing this morning but let’s rock dawn patrol instead, do my day job, see my friends, and fall asleep in the 8s or 9s kind of girl. I think (I hope) you can likely still make it work, still achieve some version of whatever success you’ve defined for yourself but it will happen slower than for all the people who get interviewed by Tim Ferris on his podcast to discuss hyperproductivity. And I’ve started to be ok with that. Plus, I have to be ok with it, because I’m not showing any signs of movement towards an otherwise.

So ya—I spend most of my “writing” time journaling little pep talks to myself, which isn’t really the work, it’s just a warm up before the work, a time to galvanize and clear my head, or looking out the window. The work—the essay, or the long form book, or the poem—that might get ten minutes or a half hour on a good day. It’s better than what I did for twenty years or so which was simply dream of being a writer without lifting a pen, thinking somehow it would just “be so!”, like magic beans or abracadabra. I told myself “If I actually tried, I would be great! If I didn’t have to go to this silly day job, I’d actually have the time to write my works, get my deal and be on the world tour!” It was a big old bundle of excuses. To call one point out specifically, I’ve had days that stretched for miles in their vastness of “nothin’ much going on today” and didn’t once find myself “writing all day”. Maya Angelou let a hotel room, Stephen King works 3-4 hours a day, but my good day is 15-30 minutes, in the morning, while my loves are still sleeping and the blue of dawn is unfurling.

I once had an interview for a job in New York at the founder’s beautiful apartment. There were expensive, boldly colored tapestries on the walls and floor, and heavy looking pieces of furniture. I recall there was endless air and space in the apartment, despite its being filled with color and wood, and in that air hung the suggestion of great wealth.

I think the company’s owner size me up instantly as ill-fitting for the job (which has been true for every day job I’ve ever held—he was not unique in his astuteness).

“What do you really want to do?” he asked, leaning forward.

Since he’d clearly already marked my resume with a “Next!” at the top, I opted to be honest at question rather than protesting “No no! I seriously love researching rare earth metals, which is the primary responsibility here according to your job description! I love anything with the potential for fracking!”. “Well, I love to write,” I said.

“Ah,” he leaned back in his chair. “I knew it. Me too.” If he’d had a pipe, I think he would have lit it then. “Don’t ever do that for your job,” he said. “It’ll rob the joy of it.”

And I reviled against that advice then. You have no clue who I am and who I’ll be! I wanted to shout. But I’ve turned his words over—over and over—through the years, like a stone, and there was a thread of important truth in that advice for me. And it was this: Don’t let your dreams of being a writer 1) distract you from the actual work itself 2) unleash a Titanic sized weight of pressure on your back that will feel so heavy you can barely lift your pen. Uncoupling that dream of fame and riches from the work itself has been the single most important mindset switch I’ve made as a writer.

I think I thought that being a good writer would somehow get me out of a day job, the need to worry about paying bills, the need to save for retirement. I told myself “Soon I’ll be a rich writer, so I don’t need to think of these earthly worries.” It was kind of like my own version of the crystal shop owner’s dream of Mecca in The Alchemist. The dream sustained me, kept my going, but actually putting the time in to realize it? Bah!

Again, my dream has morphed significantly since I was five, plagiarizing Black Beauty to impress my family. Now, my only dream and goal is to actually do my work. To sit down, to write and complete my work, and to share it. I’ve unhitched my star from fame, though I remain steadfastly hitched to the notion of fortune (why not?). I’m simply following the mantra of “Always produce” as essayist Paul Graham would say.

I’ve heard that “The work is the gift” and I find that’s true. My writing time is my quiet time—it’s like being a in a holy cave where I can focus, and the opportunity and ability to focus is now, quite possibly, the most elusive thing on the menu of life, with everything that’s aimed at distracting you. When I’m writing, I don’t feel like a weirdo or an outsider—I feel like an instrument that’s in tune. As social connected beings, hardwired to prize acceptance in the group, a lot of us spend time wondering “Am I weird? Was that the most awkward thing ever to say just then? Why does it feel like everyone else is swimming and I’m thrashing about with heavy rocks tied to my feet like a Salem witch?” But when I’m writing, there’s none of that—just a calmness and a sense of belonging, a feeling I’m doing what I was made to do. And so I would agree that writing is the gift, and honing the craft the true responsibility of any artist or maker, and really the only piece you can control anyway.

Further inspiration

Cheryl Strayed: Write like a Motherfucker

Jim Carrey, The Real You

Tim Ferriss’s interview of Jerry Seinfeld

Steven Pressfield, The War of Art