SO. MUCH. WATER.

Insanity.

There is so much water being moved around right now.

Checked out SS, LS, WS, P---s and RR. Everyone and their mother at RR, maybe 20 or so people perched waiting.

LS was filled with kooks with a death wish and a few really good surfers. People were really struggling to get through the white wash at high tide this AM. Got to WS and there was one surfer who got out pretty soon after I got there. “Fun, but so much water moving,” he said.

I watched for a while at LS and WS but ultimately decided it was just too gnarly. There were periods I totally could have surfed, but the close-out sets that came through were so heavy I just didn’t want to get out there. Plus, I could see how tired everyone was trying to get past the foam. I passed. Headed to Shipwrecks and skated for a while. Trying not to hold back and it’s really helping. Hit NTC.

Supposed to clean up for tomorrow and Monday too. I really really hope so. I haven’t been in the water since lunch time Tuesday and I’m jumping out of my mind.