Tuesday

Tuesday, South of R————-s.

I’m usually north of R’s but I told myself I gotta start surfing the entire swath of beach, and seeking out the better waves, rather than just getting comfortable where I always paddle out. Tuesday, I think the forecast on MSW was something like 1-2 or 2-3 but so so clean.

I popped out (the parking meters have been taken out for the season—hurray!) where it seemed like I could catch either a right or left. I was out for a while and the waves were just so so friendly. I paddled a little north and came upon a rock garden, so good to know, just south of R’s. I was really trying to practice getting off my board with more control/more safely, and it was the perfect day, and that was the perfect place to do it. I’ve been practicing my cross step and though I don’t think I quite did that, I did have a little more fluidity moving around my board. I found the perfect plank that’s perched on the path behind me to practice on dry land. Met a guy out on the water from RI who said that of all the places he’s ever been in the world to surf, RI folks can be the most possessive of their waves. I find this hilarious.

Tony S had posted about Hot Wax Shaping School and I’m going to call them and find out about coming down for a class. Auntie Jayne said I could stay with them, of course.

My wavecasting book came in from the library and I’m still plugging along Tony Butt’s Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing. I really want to be able to understand what spots are going to be better and why, and be savvier with reading models/wave forecasts.

Anyway, Tuesday was a great day. Surfed until the sun went down and the ocean was just throwing some surprisingly fun, clean 2-3-footers.

I haven’t been out since Tuessday. We just got a Nor’easter overnight and the waves are supposed to be massive so I can’t wait to run down to SS and see. Possibly going to clean up after work so I might be able to pop in but wind is supposed to be upwards of 25mph and I don’t love that.

Peace.