Surf: Lunchtime sesh

I jumped in for a super quick lunch time surf sesh. It’d been more than two weeks since I’d jumped in. Having 1) finished the last of my antibiotics for my ear infection yesterday 2) considered I was feeling better and most importantly, 3) it was in the 40s, low wind and 3-4 feet, it was game on. I’d been feeling buzzy and itchy and as usual, heading to “Church” (la playa) was the solution.

Only a couple people out and I ran from my car, wanting to maximize every second given I only had an hour for lunch with work.

I was just north of R’s and the waves were just fine. Mostly 1-2 feet but with a couple 3-4 coming through. It was my perfect type of day—small, clean, and quiet.

There’s no peace like the ocean, nothing like it to put my buzzy mind at ease and give me quiet.

I’d rather surf than not surf at all, so I walked away feeling like even if I only have 40 minutes or so in the water, it’s worth it and that I should try to take advantage of the quick lunch surfs more often. We’re getting more daylight but so so slowly and so, on mornings where I’m just not having it—not having that early morning frigid wake up call—I’m going to shoot up for a quick lunch time sesh and be glad for it. Better than nothing. Better than anything really.