Green Morning Water

12th. I was pissed that I pressed snooze three times. I was only going to give myself one time. Then two times. Then I hit it the third time.

I shoulda been out there sooner.

It was perfect.

A green water day and the faces were so clean. No wind. Pink from the sunrise etched gently on the surface.

This morning’s session was so peaceful. The waves were gentle and had the perfect amount of push.

It filled my heart with stoke and gave me such ease for the whole day. I felt like I’d swallowed the sun. I really couldn’t think of a time where I felt so at ease. I hopped on Timmy’s skateboard at lunch and just pumped along King’s and hadn’t a care in the world beyond that one driveway that’s all pebbles and scatters pebbles in my path.

Today was another day where I surfed with other people around me whereas usually I’m a total agoraphobe and about ten miles from the biggest peak and crowd. But I’m getting a little more comfortable taking off with other people around me and taking waves.

6th. I went out for a second sesh with Jill and didn’t get much. Got one wave within the first ten minutes then nothin’ the rest of the time. We were at dead low tide. The waves looked promising then just died. The wind picked up and it started to rain. At one point, by 12th, it felt like we were living in a black and white photograph, it was so beautiful and strange. It got stormy and I didn’t like the vibe with the crowd and I was exhausted so I headed in. We hit Throwback and Kenny Brothers Band were playing.

They were out of Donkey Jote IPA and it was sad but Campfire Porter made it better.