S&R Waves. On days it’s flat, I take Timmy’s board to S&R waves and skate.

Skating has improved my turns on the water so fast, I can hardly believe it. It 100% led to my two best waves I’ve ever caught at Long Sands the other day, and subsequently some really great rides at the Wall. Learning how to use my arms to turn and change directions has been a complete game changer. Plus, it’s damn fun.

Yesterday, I realized I could catch some video of myself by putting my phone in my shoe on top of my car. Watching the video I realized I am going about 10 times slower than I think I am. Everything feels faster and more dramatic on the board.

I checked the Wall and Jeness about twenty times yesterday hoping the forecast would be wrong, but no dice, so I skated and hit Jonty’s. Then I took myself to a romantic dinner at Raleigh Wine Bar where I stuffed my face, spilled red wine on my white sweater and laughed embarrassingly loud as I was reading the chapter about' Walter ‘Big Wally’ Hoffman called “Comin’ Down” and the comb in Gerry Lopez’s Surf Is Where You Find It. I left happy to curl up and re-watch The Tempest and Rob Machado on a long(ish)board.

Life is good.