SARA DYER - WORDS. SURF. IRREVERENCE.

Location: TW
Low tide: 3:31PM
Got out there: 3:30PM
3 other paddlers (1 SUP, 2 surfers)

It looked so clean earlier in the day, albeit a little bigger than I was hoping since we hadn’t been out in a couple weeks. We’ve still only been out a handful of times on our new boards and last time we went out, we essentially just wiped out the whole time.
I don’t mind going out solo surfing when it’s warmer and I did so last summer, but in the winter, I just don’t feel that comfy about it, especially since this is a newer beach for us. So I harassed Dan to go out with me for a sesshie. He’d just run a half marathon that morning and the sweet guy finally caved after I followed him from room to room begging him to suit up and go out. I know he was happy to try to go out too, even though he was cold and tired. It was sunny, wasn’t supposed to be much wind (foreshadowing, it was windy!!) and offshore (yes!), it was 30 degrees or so. All good things in the winter time, and hard to come by on a Saturday or Sunday, and one where we’re actually around.
I drove back from North Adams in the morning and did a little recon—I was pumped to see 6 or so surfers out and some really clean 5 footers. Yes.
Then I just paced around waiting for Dan to get home from his half.
Got to TW and parked at 12th. And we just could not get passed the break. I’m still getting my sea legs at this beach, and trying to sort out all its churns. There was a snowstorm on the way, so I figure that might have been affecting it. Maybe we should’ve moved closer to 1st—that’s where the surfers had been earlier.
I noticed when we walked in that there were huge divets in the ground, 2-4 feet that just had me sinking right away unexpectedly. Maybe sand bars, maybe the wonky current.
We kept trying to paddle out but there was really no break in between waves, and they were breaking all over the place, sideways, and what not. Finally I just gave up and rode some foam. Got one tiny ride in and even though it was short, who cares? It made it worth it. Also I have to say, I am loving my new Roxy suit. It’s keeping me so warm. It’s such a difference from the suit I wore last year in Feb/March.
I don’t love going out when I’m surfing the CT so I fretted and fussed but obviously we still went out. And then all that worrying was for nothing when we got out and Dan said “Your nose is bleeding!” I have no idea how that happened, or at what point in the sesh, but we honestly were only out for maybe a half hour, just getting tossed.
Anyway, it’s never a wasted session. It’s recon, it’s connecting with the ocean, it’s testing out new gear, and we’re always learning.