DP and South of R's

DP, LS, far north.

I’d really been banging myself up about sleeping in. Right now I work remotely, and it’s technically really easy for me to get out for dawn patrol. This week I really committed to starting to wake up in the wee hours so I can drink my coffee slowly, which is a must for me, and be in my car by first light. I got rewarded for that on Friday with this beautiful sunrise:

The tide was filling in really fast and it was small, ankle biters, but it’s always fun and I was so happy about that light. Nubble looked so beautiful and the colors were just like the sky was on fire. Everyone on the sidewalk was beside themselves with how beautiful it was.

Yesterday (Saturday) I went out just south of R’s. It was just me for an hour or so, then a longboarder rolled out. It was tough for me to catch anything at first but an hour or two later, it got more surfable and cleaned up. I met a guy name JP from Quebec who told me H——--s is best right before or after HT. He also said I gotta try to surf leashless, or at the very least start grabbing my board or wedging it back over the wave. He vocalized what I’ve been really trying to work on and I need to get better. Really need to have more control of the board. Fairly certain I understand why I jacked up my shoulder and it’s from the way I’ve been grabbing my board at the end of the ride. Gotta fix that because I do NOT want that to be getting in my way

Went to the Halloween paddle out with SPC from Peirce Island. All the folks were super nice and there were some hilarious costumes. The current was so strong we turned back after a really quick lap.

I think I’m leaning toward building a log, 9’0? Single fin (do you even ride a log with more than that?). I’m clearly at the very beginning of the process. But, I do have two thoughts 1) I should learn the generally held rules so that I know when I want to break them for building surfboards 2) I’d prefer to go the long way / do whatever I need to have a fairly in-depth understanding of the process, rather than taking lots of short cuts. We’ll see what these decisions translate into. Maddie and I are going to check out Dale’s scene, and get a little intel about building our boards soon—I’m pumped.