Back to the Holy City

R—--r. I went back to the holy place for the first time since TPC took me there this summer in August. I knew Wednesday was going to be a good day for it and sure enough it was. Josh was there, suiting up too, which was hysterical and we were the first people in the water. Made it just in time for low tide, though not pre-low. Josh said he’d never seen it set up this way and he thought the rio must have busted through differently in some way.

What I found, and what I didn’t remember from the only other time going, was that the wave is much zippier, much faster than the waves I’ve been on all summer, esp. LS. LS I can literally skip the last paddle and dopily get to my feet and usually make it—it’s leisurely, like walking the grounds of an old Irish castle. The R—--r, meanwhile, you’ve got to be up and going. You’ve got to be committed and surefooted from the start.

There’s something about that spot. The light was magical, the shape of the waves is just beyond. I got a couple really nice rides—it started picking up a half hour or so after getting there. There was no wind. It was such a gift of a day.

Per J, the wave never breaks sooner than the rocks on the left if you’re facing the shore, so good to know. It was also nice that paddling in, the bay is protected so you can paddle in chill.

I didn’t realize just how close it is to me, only ten minutes north. I want to take full advantage of living here right now and so every chance I get, I’ll be there. Lovelovelove.